Regions of Italy
TUSCANY
- Florence
- Siena
- Visit a famous artist’s studio in Pietrasanta
- Enjoy a romantic interlude at Porto Ercole on the coast
- Walk the historic walled town of Lucca
- Experience olive oil like never before in Vicchio
- Savor the seaside at Forte dei Marmi or Viareggio
Tuscany, the cradle of modern European culture, contains treasures of every age and style, from the Etruscan theater and Roman baths at Fiesole, to the majestic Gothic buildings in the medieval town of Siena, to the exceptional art and architecture of Florence. The cities of Tuscany have produced writers, scientists, architects, musicians and artists whose works have literally changed the world. The immense dome of Florence’s Duomo, designed by Brunelleschi, inspired Michelangelo’s design for the dome of St. Peter’s in Rome, and influenced architecture in towns throughout Italy. Modern science and technology have their roots in the experiments of Galileo and other researchers. Puccini was born in Lucca. Dante, Petrarch and Boccaccio broke with traditional Latin and wrote in the Italian language, establishing the Tuscan dialect as Italy’s literary language and things Tuscan as the measure of culture and refinement.
Under the patronage of the Medici dynasty, Florence became the center of the artistic explosion of the Renaissance. One of the most important collections of paintings in the world is in the Uffizi Gallery, and in the austere Bargello you can view the exceptional collection of sculpture by Donatello and Luca della Robbia. Michelangelo’s David and Botticelli’s Birth of Venus should not be missed, nor should a stroll through the outdoor markets of San Lorenzo. Cross the ancient Ponte Vecchio to the Pitti Palace to enjoy the exquisite works of Raphael and Titian, and then visit the Boboli Gardens for a marvelous view of Florence.
The peaceful Tuscan landscape is primarily rolling hills, with vineyards, olive groves, cypress trees and hilltop villages all bathed in a soft, amber light. To many it seems familiar, and rightly so: during the Renaissance it was often used as the backdrop for the paintings of the masters. The rustic Tuscan farmhouse, made of local stone and set atop a hill flanked by lines of cypress trees, is a sight unique to Tuscany. Silent medieval hilltowns, with their fortified castle walls and church steeples visible in the distance, are a part of the landscape: San Gimignano, Volterra, Montepulciano, Cortona. Tuscany’s olive groves yield some of Italy’s finest extra virgin olive oil, but the heart of the region is in its vineyards, particularly the Chianti Classico, where you can visit fattorie (wine estates), to sample and purchase their wines.
In Tuscany the esteem for bread is elevated to reverence. Most Tuscan meals begin with crostini, slices of bread that are lightly toasted and topped with anything from chicken liver to myrtle to olive paste; acquacotta, a thin vegetable soup, and panzanella, a soup made from leftover bread soaked in vinegar and vegetables are among the many bread-based soups. Simplicity and flavor are the guiding principles of Tuscan cooking: pasta, served with a sauce of vegetables or meat; salviata, an omelet with fresh sage; or lesso rifatto con le cipolle, a flavorful stew of leftover boiled beef smothered in long-simmered onions, are classic embodiments of this philosophy. There is arista, a succulent roasted pork loin, and bistecca alla fiorentina, grilled steak made with the prized Val di Chiana beef. Beans are used in many dishes: soups, salads, pasta, or just sprinkled with olive oil, and spinach is the favorite vegetable. Florence’s sweet bread, schiacciata con l’uva, has been baked since Etruscan times and zuccotto, an elegant dome shaped cake filled with a ricotta cream, is traditional. Vin Santo is one of the region’s renowned sweet wines, often served with cantuccini di Prato, dry almond cookies, for dipping. Among the other great wines of Tuscany are Tignanello, Sassacaia, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Vernaccia di San Gimignano, and the famous Brunello di Montalcino.
UMBRIA
- Visit picturesque hill towns like Spello, Gubbio, Montefalco
- Enjoy the world renowned summer music festival in Spoleto
- See Giotto's frescoes in the Basilica of San Francesco in Assisi
- Savor Italy's famous Rosso di Montefalco red wine or the Rosso di Torgiano
- Shop for cashmere at the new Brunello Cucinelli outlet
- Buy pottery in Deruta
- Learn to prepare Umbrian cuisine in Montefalco or Spello
In the spring wildflowers transform the rolling Umbrian countryside into a rainbow of color, but still one’s eye is drawn upward, to the tops of the surrounding hills, to the walled towns perched above. Perhaps the most distinguishing feature of the region, these fortified medieval hill towns are rich in art, history and architecture, and many are relatively untouched by tourism. Gubbio, Spello, Todi, Spoleto, Deruta, Orvieto — all are unique and worthy of a visit. Perugia, the capital, is one of Italy’s best preserved towns, with a strong artistic and cultural tradition. The fresco painters Perugino and Pinturicchio lived here, and their works are part of a comprehensive collection of Umbrian art displayed in the 13th century Palazzo dei Priori, or town hall, considered one of the finest secular buildings in Italy. The frescoes of Pietro Vannucci, Perugia’s most important Renaissance painter, can be seen on the walls of the Collegio del Cambio, built in 1450. Perugia was founded by the Etruscans, who built the city walls and the imposing arched main gate of the city. It is also the site of the annual Umbria Jazz Festival, and home to the famous Perugina chocolates and Buitoni pasta.
The Umbrian landscape is often cloaked in a silver blue haze, giving it a soft, soothing, and almost mystical quality. Western monasticism began in the Umbrian hills, and abbeys, monasteries and convents are found throughout the region. Several Christian saints were born here, the most famous being St Francis, who preached in the cobblestone streets of Assisi and prayed in the surrounding hills and fields, which today remain much as they were seven hundred years ago. Dominating the town and a magnet for thousands of tourists is the impressive Basilica of St Francis, with treasured frescoes by Giotto, Cimabue, Lorenzetti and Martini. But even at its most crowded, Assisi’s narrow, winding lanes and medieval houses of pink stone and flowering window boxes retain a feeling of peace.
Umbria is primarily mountains and hills, streams and valleys, with terraced vineyards, orchards and miles of olive groves. Umbrian olive oil is considered by many to be Italy’s best, and the wines of Orvieto are legendary. Outside of Piemonte, Umbria is the only region where truffles are found in abundance: five varieties grow wild in the woods. Lake Trasimeno, the largest in central Italy, provides a moderating influence on much of the climate.
Olive oil flavors most of the dishes of this hilly region, and ventresca and guanciale, cured meats, also lend their distinctive taste. Black truffles from Norcia and Spoleto feature in specialties like spaghetti alla nursina and trota al tartufo, trout with truffles. Meat is usually grilled, roasted, or baked; try the roasted lamb, agnello arrosto, traditional at Easter. Porchetta, a roast suckling pig flavored with garlic, rosemary and other herbs, is a signature dish, and game is prepared many ways: squab with olives, pheasant with grapes, and pigeons with tomatoes, olives, vinegar, juniper berries, and prosciutto. Norcia is renowned for its cured meats (norcino means pork butcher in Italian, the master of salami and cured meats), and the entire region offers stupendous cheeses, including caciotta, fresh and salted ricotta, and Pecorino. Desserts include cicerchiata, a wreath-shaped cake made of deep fried dough, candied fruit, nuts and honey, and served at Carnevale and Christmas; pinocatta, a pine nut-studded cookie; and tisichelle, anise-flavored macaroons. Among the outstanding wines of Umbria are Orvieto, Torgiano, Monetefalco Sagrantino, Montefalco Rosso, Colli Altotibertini, Colli Perugini, and Colli del Trasimeno.
CAMPANIA
- Take in the unforgettable vistas of the Amalfi Coast
- On Ischia visit the internationally acclaimed La Mortella gardens
- Crowd onto the ever-popular island of Capri
- Visit the important city of Naples for excellent antiques shopping
- Walk in the steps of history at Pompeii and Herculaneum
- Shop in Positano or take in a concert in Ravello
Facing the Tyrrhenian Sea with one of the most majestic coastlines in Europe, the region of Campania has been a magnet for tourists for over 2,000 years. From the glittering Bay of Naples to the enchanting island of Capri to the breathtaking Amalfi Coast, visitors have been attracted to Campania by its astonishing natural beauty and its inviting climate. Equally impressive is its heritage of ancient ruins, for Campania is an extraordinarily rich repository of classical antiquity. Amphitheaters, triumphal arches, villas, bridges and tombs are numerous and remarkable. Built in the 5th Century BC, the spectacular temples at Paestum are among the best preserved examples of classical Greek architecture in the world. In 79 AD the lava from Mt Vesuvius buried the Roman cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum; the remains of both, complete with colorful frescos and mosaics, can be seen today. Because the surrounding volcanic soil is unusually fertile, the superb fruits and vegetables grown in the area are often described as sublime.
The capital, Naples, is home to the National Archaeological Museum, containing one of the most important collections of its kind in the world. This vibrant city, with its beautiful setting on the Bay of Naples, has suffered a series of invaders, all of whom have left behind remnants of their civilizations, making Naples a fascinating city to explore. The islands in the Bay are linked to Naples by hydrofoil. The largest, Ischia, is volcanic and noted for its thermal springs and curative muds. Capri, with its wooded, mountainous landscape and breathtaking cliffs and grottos, is the most charming. Inhabited since the Stone Age, Capri was occupied by the Greeks before becoming the private haven of Emperor Augustus, who founded the world’s first archaeological museum to display the fossils and artifacts unearthed by his workers. The southern side of the Bay of Naples is formed by the Sorrento Peninsula, a mountainous area of semi tropical vegetation where pine trees, vineyards, citrus and olive groves, bougainvillea and oleander all flourish.
The famous Amalfi Drive, which begins at Sorrento, a town perched on a cliff 165 feet above the sea, and ends at Vietri, a town known for its colorful ceramics, contains some of the most spectacular scenery in the world. Here, towns cling to the mountainsides, with gardens and paths leading down to the sea. The serpentine road winds along wildly beautiful towering cliffs that drop into brilliant blue water, connecting the towns of Positano and Amalfi. Located in the mountains high above Amalfi is Ravello, one of the loveliest towns on the Amalfi Coast, known for its architecture, its gardens and its stupendous view.
The cuisine of the region reflects Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, Norman, Provençal, Spanish, French and to a certain extent, Austrian influences. Pizza, symbol of Neapolitan cooking, evolved in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. Baked in hot, wood fired ovens, it contains few, but high quality ingredients, such as those found in pizza Margherita: fresh San Marzano tomatoes, mozzarella di bufala, fresh basil and a sprinkling of olive oil. Deep-fried mozzarella in carrozza (mozzarella in a carriage) is found on most menus. Other specialties are spaghetti alle vongole, with clams, garlic and olive oil; zuppa di cozzi, mussels in a hot pepper sauce; pasta al forno, various types of pasta baked with tomato sauce, mozzarella and other ingredients; a variety of eggplant dishes; and squid and octopus. Desserts include exceptional pastries, such as sfogliatelle, a crunchy pastry filled with ricotta or cream; pastiera napoletana, an Easter cake made with ricotta and flavored with orange; and zeppole, deep fried dough served with honey. The area produces famous wines harking back to Roman times; try the white Greco di Tufo and Fiano di Avellino; the red Taurasi, excellent when aged; and Lacrima Cristi from Vesuvius and Falerno.
LE MARCHE
The region of Le Marche is an enchanting corner of Italy with a varied landscape from hilly countryside to a long coastline extending along the Adriatic Sea for about 180 km. The hinterland is characterized by fine medieval boroughs, whereas the coastline has low waters and fine sandy beaches, apart from one high, rocky cliff at Monte Conero.
Ancona is the regional capital and is a natural port dating back to the 5th century BC, when it was founded by Greek exiles from Siracusa in Sicily. Together with Pesaro, which is the birthplace of composer Gioacchino Rossini, it is one of the pivotal centres of the coast. In the countryside the medieval highlights of the region are the cities of Ascoli Piceno and Urbino.
The region is full of natural beauty boasting two national parks (Monti Sibillini and Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga) and four regional parks (Monte Conero, Sasso Simone and Simoncello, Monte San Bartolo, Gola della Rossa and Gola di Frasassi). The Grotte di Frasassi are caves dating back thousands of years and with their small lakes, stalactites and gigantic stalagmites are among the largest accessible caverns in Europe.
The region’s traditional industries are papermaking, shipbuilding, shoe manufacturing, food, furniture, musical instruments and synthesizers and apparel. Among the typical local products are: ceramics, terracotta, copper, rugs, wooden pipes, hats, musical instruments, toys, leather goods, furniture, gold, paper, straw, wicker and travertine.
The many delicacies of Le Marche include ciauscolo salami, cheese from Talamello matured in caves, prized truffles from Acqualagna, Sant’Angelo in Vado and Sant’Agata Feltria, casciotta cheese from Urbino, ham from Carpegna and salami from Fabriano.
Among the local dishes you have Ancona-style dried cod, “vincisgrassi” (lasagne made with chicken livers and truffles), Olive all’Ascolana (stuffed, fried olives from Ascoli Piceno), and “brodetto” (fish stew).
The region has 12 DOC wines, the main regional white is the excellent Verdicchio, and other whites are the Bianchello del Metauro and the Bianco dei Colli Maceratesi. As for the reds Rosso Conero and the Rosso Piceno.
SICILY
- Possibly more preserved Greek ruins than exist in Greece!
- Walk through the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento
- Adventuresome types can get up close to Mount Etna
- See the Taormina Greek amphitheater from the 3rd century BC
- History buffs will not want to miss Palermo, Syracusa and Ragusa
- Visit Marsala for wine; Caltagirone for pottery
Nature and history have combined to give Sicily its most striking feature: impressive monuments of the past set against backgrounds of astonishing natural beauty. Climb the hill to the 3rd century BC Greek amphitheater at Taormina and experience a setting where nature enhances art: on one side stretches the dramatic, jagged coastline of the azure blue Ionian Sea, on the other, snow capped Mt. Etna. The 12th century cathedral at Monreale, a masterpiece of Norman architecture famous for its dazzling mosaics, commands unsurpassed views down the Conca d’Oro Valley, with Palermo and its bay visible in the distance.
With its location in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea, Sicily became a bridge between the civilizations of the East and West. Peoples from the southern Mediterranean, including the Phoenicians, were the earliest settlers, but the island’s growth, prosperity and cultural development began with Greek colonization in the 8th century BC. The powerful city-states of Syracuse, Catania, Selinute and Agrigento competed with each other to construct the most spectacular temples. The hauntingly beautiful Valley of the Temples, built parallel to the sea at Agrigento, are some of the best preserved outside of Greece. The Romans arrived in the 2nd century BC, followed by the Arabs, Normans, French, Spanish and finally the Bourbons. Churches, temples, gardens, palaces and theaters from these civilizations are scattered throughout the island. However, it was during the Arab domination in the 9th and 10th centuries when Sicily’s influence in trade and culture expanded, while the Norman occupation in the 11th and 12th centuries was a major artistic influence, leaving behind exquisite churches and palaces of Arab-Byzantine style.
Sicily has a remarkably varied landscape, with a mountainous interior, hills and plateaus, and a wildly beautiful coastline of rocky promontories, sheer cliffs, fine sand beaches, tiny coves and clear waters. Off shore are groups of smaller islands, some of volcanic origin; Stromboli, off the northern coast, has an active volcano. Breathtaking vistas abound: the semi-tropical landscape of lemon groves and pine forests; miles of sparkling sea shore dotted by small fishing villages; and towering mountains framed by a brilliant blue sky. With its mild climate and volcanic enriched soil, Sicily is an important agricultural center, growing vegetables and citrus fruit, including the famous blood oranges, and producing olive oil and wine. Luxuriant gardens with exotic plants grace the major cities, including Palermo, the capital.
Sicilian cuisine is an adventure in history. Its cooking speaks of its complicated history of invasions and occupations as well as of the fresh flavors of the land and the bounty of the sea. There is cuscus (couscous) from Trapani, an Arab legacy, served with a fish stew. Pasta con le sarde, with fresh anchovies, is traditional. Bottarga, tuna roe that has been salted and pressed, tops pasta in the renowned spaghetti alla siracusana. Sfinciuni di San Vito, a stuffed focaccia, is not to be missed, nor is caponata, a sensuous dish of eggplant, celery and onions that are fried separately and cooked briefly in a sweet and sour sauce that includes tomatoes, raisins, pine nuts, vinegar, and a pinch of sugar. Farsumagru, a meat roll filled with cheese, sausage and boiled eggs is one of the island’s classic meat dishes, and piscispada alla ghiotta, an exuberant swordfish preparation, its most famous fish dish. Cassata, a sponge cake with ricotta, chocolate, candied fruits and pistachios, is the most beloved Sicilian dessert; ricotta-stuffed cannoli are known throughout the world. Cubbaita, a nougat with honey, almonds, and sesame seeds, speaks of Arab influence. Some of Italy’s best ice cream is made in Sicily, and little can rival the sweetness of its fruit. Sicily produces a number of great wines, most of them sweet: Marsala, Malvasia delle Lipari, and Moscato. Excellent table wines are made on the Regaleali estate; other outstanding ones are Etna, Alcamo, Corvo, Faro, and Ombra.
PIEDMONT – Piemonte
- One of the most important wine-producing areas in Italy
- Spend a day exploring the many castles and palaces
- Shop at Serravalle, the largest designer outlet mall in Italy
- Visit Turin’s automobile and archaeological museums
- See the Shroud of Turin at the city’s Duomo di San Giovanni
This northwest corner of Italy has an identity quite different from the rest of the country. Bordered by Switzerland on the north and France along its western flank, Piemonte is heavily influenced by both nations. The tidy mountain villages of the north could easily be a part of Switzerland, while prior to the last century French was spoken in Piemonte, and it influences the various dialects spoken today. The French House of Savoy began its rule of Piemonte in the 11th century, and as capital of the French province, Turin became one of the grand cities of Europe. Today the French legacy is seen in the layout of the city center with its wide boulevards, expansive squares and beautiful gardens and parks, in the Baroque architecture of its churches and palaces, and in its sidewalk cafes and sophisticated shops.
Mountains cover almost forty percent of Piemonte, which literally means “at the foot of the mountains.” Its Alpine valleys are magnets for winter sports and its Alpine lakes are popular with summer vacationers. Lake Orta, a relatively small lake with an island in the center, is encircled by mountains and punctuated by small towns along its shoreline. Beginning in Switzerland, the northern part of Lake Maggiore resembles a fiord, and as one travels south the landscape has a distinct Mediterranean feeling: mountains give way to rolling hills, palm trees, and gardens filled with orange trees and exotic flowers. One of the main outdoor attractions of Piemonte is the Grande Traversata delle Alpi, a walk of more than 200 km through the Alps from Lake Maggiore to the Ligurian border.
Piemonte is one of Italy’s wealthiest regions, with a strong industrial core and an extensive agricultural base. Known for its magnificent wines, Piemonte also produces two thirds of Italy’s rice and a host of superb fruits and vegetables. Its exquisite white truffles are world famous. Turin, the capital, is Italy’s second industrial city after Milan and is headquarters for the Fiat automobile company and Olivetti Corporation. Turin’s automobile museum is a fascinating look into the development of that industry, and its archaeological museum has one of the best collections of ancient Egyptian art outside of Egypt. Thousands flock to the city’s Duomo di San Giovanni to see the famous Shroud of Turin.
Because Piemonte is responsible for so much of Italy’s rice production, rice dishes such as paniscia, made with sausage and vegetables, figure prominently in its cuisine. Two soups stand out: cisra, with chickpeas and vegetables, and tofeja canavesana, with pork rind and white beans. Bagna cauda, a sauce based on anchovies and garlic, is served with vegetables for dipping. Tajarin and agnolotti are typical pastas, the first long and thin, the second stuffed with meat. Don’t miss the cheese-based fondua, made with Fontina from Val d’Aosta and the precious white truffles for which the area is famous. Traditional meat dishes are bollito misto, various cuts of beef, veal and pork cooked in a savory broth and served with a sauce; roston, braised veal with truffles; rostida, pork accompanied by polenta; and cassola, a stew of cabbage and meat. Salamm d’la duja is a typical salami. Turin produces excellent hazelnut-flavored chocolates called gianduiotti, and delicious pastries abound, many also based on the local hazelnuts. Piemonte is known for its great wines, mostly reds like Barolo, Barbera, Barbaresco, Ghemme, Gattinara, Dolcetto, Grignolino, Freisa and Brachetto. Whites, such as Roero Arneis, Erbaluce di Caluso, Cortese and Gavi are outstanding, as are the sparkling wines of Asti.
LIGURIA
- Visit the Italian Riviera
- Take advantage of a great climate year round
- Take a boat trip and visit the fishing village of Portofino
- Reach the Cinque Terre by train from Rapallo or Santa Margherita
- Reach the Cinque Terre by boat from Levanto or Portovenere
- Take a stroll on one of many walking tracks along the hills of the Cinque Terre
Lush vegetation, a mild climate and mountains that meet the sea; this is Liguria. Known as the Italian Riviera, the region stretches from the French border to Tuscany and is home to some of Italy’s best known and most popular seaside resorts: San Remo, Portofino, Santa Margherita, Rapallo. Separated by mountains from the rest of Italy and warmed by the green-blue waters of the Mediterranean, Liguria enjoys good weather year round, with a climate ideal for growing flowers, grapes, lemons and olives. Liguria’s coastline is spectacular: lovely beaches alternate with rocky promontories, small coves, calm bays and sheer cliffs that plunge into the sea. Sophisticated resorts, medieval towns, quaint fishing villages and bustling ports dot the landscape. Liguria is a center for shipbuilding and other maritime industries. The capital, Genoa, is Italy’s major port and the birthplace of Christopher Columbus. Founded by the Romans in the 4th Century BC, Genoa soon became a thriving commercial center, and today its medieval core is surrounded by a beautiful city of impressive historical buildings, parks, gardens and elegant palazzos that climb into the hills above.
The portion of Liguria that extends from the French border to the city of Genoa, the Riviera di Ponente, is also called the “Riviera of the Flowers”. Its southern exposure makes it ideal for intensive flower growing, and although floriculture, fishing and commerce contribute to its economy, tourism is its major industry. Many small, picturesque seaside resorts are strung along the coast, but San Remo, with its palm lined promenade, art nouveau architecture, restaurants, shops and nightlife is one of the Riviera’s highlights. The inland mountains have hilltop villages and offer hiking and numerous caves to explore.
Extending southeast from Genoa to the naval port of La Spezia, is the Riviera di Levante, a less developed area of Liguria that is characterized by a dramatic coastline of rugged cliffs and peninsulas covered with pine, cypress and palm trees. Here is found the enchanting town of Portofino, and the seaside resorts of Santa Margherita and Rapallo. Tourism, fishing, and olive and wine production support the economy. Cinque Terre, an area where five towns are built into mountains that come right down to the sea, has been made into a park where many types of plant and animal life flourish. The towns are linked by hiking trails that hug the side of the mountain and offer stunning views of the rugged coastline and of the vineyards terraced in the hillsides.
Herbs reign supreme in the cooking of Liguria: marjoram, basil, parsley and other wild species abound, flavoring everything from pasta stuffings to sauces to meat and fish. Basil finds its ultimate expression in a delicate pesto made with pine nuts, garlic and the local prescinsoeua cheese, often served as a sauce with thin tagliatelle called trenette or with trofie, tiny dumplings. Pansouti alla noce, plump ravioli stuffed with a mixture of wild greens called preboggion and cheese served with a creamy walnut sauce, are traditional. The flat coin-like disks called corzetti, often made with a dough that includes white wine, are frequently sauced with a mushroom ragu. Cappon magro, an impressive combination of seafood, fish, vegetables, hard-boiled eggs, olives, and anchovies spooned atop garlic-rubbed bread is one of the towering glories of Ligurian cuisine. Not to be missed are cima alla genovese, stuffed veal that is slowly poached; torta pasqualina, with spinach and eggs; farinata, a chickpea flour pancake; and sardeinaria, a flatbread topped with tomatoes, olives and anchovies. Liguria produces a delicate olive oil and excellent table olives, and pandolce, a yeast cake with currants and pine nuts, is a traditional Christmas dessert. Wines include Vermentino di Ponente, Pigato, Cinqueterre, Rossese di Dolceaqua and Brachetto d’Albegna.
LAZIO
- Rome
- Hadrian's Villa (completed in 134 AD)
- The fountains and gardens of Villa DEste
- Vineyards of Frascati in the Castelli Romani
- Tombs of Tarquinia, founded in 12th century BC
- Easy access to the cruise ship port at Civitavecchia
Lazio, birthplace of two of mankind’s greatest institutions, the Roman Empire and the Catholic Church, is dominated and largely defined by its capital, Rome. Since ancient Roman times the region has been an extension of the city, where noble Roman families created their own towns and the wealthy built their villas in the surrounding countryside. Lazio is a treasure trove of the remains of age old civilizations: bridges, churches, towers, villas, monasteries, aqueducts, arches — the list is endless. To the north of Rome are Etruscan sites and the tombs of Tarquinia, founded in the 12th century BC. The ruins of Ostia Antica, a 4th century BC port city at the mouth of the Tiber are located west of the city, with delightful beaches nearby. East of Rome toward the mountains is Tivoli, a favorite retreat for the wealthy at the height of the Roman Empire. Visit the remains of Hadrian’s Villa, completed in 134 AD, and the beautiful fountains and gardens of the Villa d’Este.
Rome, with its sun drenched ruins, its remarkable architecture, and its bounty of religious art, has been delighting visitors for centuries. A city with a millennial history, there is no street or square that does not show traces of events and civilizations long past: Etruscan, imperial, medieval, Renaissance, Baroque. There are medieval churches built over early Christian religious sites which in turn rest atop Roman palaces. Contemporary buildings incorporate parts of Roman columns or fragments of carvings or inscriptions into their structures. Although classical Rome is most visible in the vestiges of its most imposing monuments — the Colosseum, the Forum and the temples and palaces of the Palatine Hill—its influence can also be seen in the layout of the city: streets and piazzas follow the lines of classical amphitheaters and stadiums.
For example, the elegant Piazza Navona, one of the gathering points for Romans, is lined with Baroque palaces and showcases Bernini’s masterpiece, the “Fountain of the Rivers;” sit was once the Stadium of Domitian, where sports and chariot races took place! Although the look of the cen-tral city is primarily defined by the Baroque period, one can find Renaissance palaces, medieval churches, Rococo fountains, and modern structures within a few paces of each other. Elegant shops, parks and gardens, restaurants and sidewalk cafes all add to the enjoyment of this vibrant city.
The cooking of Lazio reflects the influence of three important groups. The Jews settled in the Trastevere area of Rome two thousand years ago and have contributed a vast number of recipes, including carciofi alla giudea (deep-fried artichokes); mullet with raisin and pine nuts, served cold as a Sabbath dish; and endives with anchovies. The influence of the bordering region of Abruzzo is seen in pasta dishes like bucatini all’amatriciana, thick spaghetti with bacon and tomato sauce; spaghetti alla carbonara, with beaten eggs, Parmesan and cubes of bacon; and in numerous lamb specialties, such as abbacchio, roasted baby lamb with garlic and rosemary.
The tradition of the quinto quarto, a legacy of Rome’s slaughterhouse workers, created a wealth of dishes based on organ meats, such as coda alla vaccinara, an oxtail and wine stew, and rigatoni con la pajata, slow cooked lamb meats in a tomato sauce. While stracciatella, an egg drop soup made with chicken broth is the region’s most famous, other specialties include pasta with lentils or broccoli; saltimbocca, veal cutlets topped with sage, prosciutto and mozzarella; and artichokes alla Romana, with mint, parsley and garlic. Pizza rustica, thick crusted with simple toppings, is a popular street food. Sweets include wine-based ciambellette, a ring shaped cookie; sweet fava beans, often served with Pecorino Romano, a slightly salty cheese; and torta di ricotta, a sweet ricotta pie. Lazio’s wines include Frascati, Est! Est!! Est!!!, Fiorano and Aleatico di Gradoli.